Whenever I travel, there are several questions. What will I see? How do I get the most out of an unknown country? Will language be a problem?
The best solution is to travel with friends who are from the country, though that is not often possible, no matter how eclectic our circle of friends, it is not always possible to pull the right nationality out of the hat.
The next best thing is of course reading up a bit to get the best out of your experience.
If ever, or when, you travel to Hungary, remember this sight and read a few of the stories.
Vajda Hunyad castle, a replica in city park.
Chances are you might arrive on a Viking ship cruising down the Danube. Your river boat will come to a majestic stop at the Lion Bridge in Budapest. A perfect scenic arrival, an ideal stopping place. You have the Parliament in front of you, the Duna Corzo on your right, with an array of restaurants. On your left and across the river is the Castle. Everything is within walking distance. Pick a hotel with a view, Pest or Buda, the view is great. I favor the Marriot, it is ugly on the outside but has lovely rooms with views, cannot stress it enough. When I was last there with my daughter, we always sat in the window seat and enjoyed the view and a glass of wine as the light faded and the lights came on. Then we headed out for dinner at an outdoor table along the promenade and basked in the view. Are you getting tire of that repetition? I just do not want you to forget that as cities go, it is marvelous and, well marvelous.
If you flew in from somewhere do get a massage, first thing, the hotels have them and they are great. After that you can start wandering around. If you are on the Pest side it is easy enough to just wander on foot to Váci utca and absorb the atmosphere, then stop at the Vásárcsarnok and ascend to the second floor food court and elbow yourself a place in the lángos line. Once at the front, refrain from all the possible toppings and have it plain with salt and a rubbing of garlic, accompanied by a cold beer. Once replete skip the tourist souvenirs and walk around the food hall on the main floor, the food aromas are mouthwatering. It is worthwhile to buy some of the seasonal fruit to keep in your room for a tasty refresher. The strawberries are sweet and small, the grapes just yummy. Be adventurous, try the pálinka, sample the szalámis and meats, but refrain from buying the canned paté. If you want the goose liver paté, and I recommend it highly, it is available in many places, cold or warm, an is quite literally heavenly.
The Castle district is a must, take the siklo, it ascends right next to the entrance to the tunnel. You can enjoy the panorama as you ride up. It will deposit you at the Habsburg era palace which houses the museum of Hungarian artists as well as other exhibits. See the Hungarian artists, you cannot see them else where, and besides being good it is a tour through history. Afterward, stroll through the entire castle district and find lost gems and post war abominations of the communist era, fragments of churches and good food. When the afternoon starts to fade toward twilight be sure to get a glass of wine on the Halász Bástya, Fisher mens Bastion, then stay and watch the lights come on on the bridges and all across the city, breathtaking. Then in the lamplight cross the square and find the Arany Hordo, or any of the many restaurants and enjoy a three course dinner. If you smile too much at the musicians they will come and play for you, it is very nice, be sure to ask for something Hungarian and tip generously. Take the siklo back down and walk across the Lion bridge and back to your hotel.
If you are Catholic, Mass at the Mátyás Templom, in the castle is lovely, enter through the side door. If you do not wish, go as a tourist and pay. The Mátyás and the Belvarosi Templom, next to the Erzsébet Bridge on the Pest side are the most worthwhile. The second has some lovely relics, sad history and the Madonna shot during WWII.
Also must see, are the Citadel, go by taxi or bus, and the Millennium monument, at the end of Andrásy út, on foot a long walk along the lovely boulevard, or a short metro ride on one of the oldest metro lines.
The Citadel was built in the mid eighteen hundreds by the Habsburgs to controll the city population. They were after all much hated invaders and usurpers.
The millennium Monument speaks for itself. In front of it had stood the despised Stalin statue until its removal by an angry population at the start of the uprising of 1956.
Take walks, get lost on some side streets, visit the chapel in the mountain, the hospital under the castle, sample on of the baths, perhaps the Gellért, see a folk dance show. I would recommend avoiding the dinner cruises and the torture museum as well as the graveyard of Soviet sculpture. The firs is very touristy, and there is so much more history and life than the two latter. The Parliament is an of course, must have reservation, first thing in the morning is best and least mobbed, Concerts, opera, nightclubs have always been Budapest staples. The hidden treasure is Margit Island in the Danube, nature in the city, great when you want some rest from the pavement.
If you want mementos there are shops that sell the real arts and crafts, my favorite, the ladies are kind and knowledgeable, is on the corner of Váci utca and Régiposta utca, near Vörösmarty Square, home to Gerbeaud pastry, do stop and eat. Here you must follow your instincts, but at some point have some palacsinta, crepe, with powdered sugar and fresh berries, and krémes, and on and on.
Getting lost for a bit, say on the side streets off Villányi út is important, it is safe and it is real. Public transport is easy to understand and is efficient, the hotel will call a taxi for you and help with questions, the English is good and fluent.
These are some of my favorite places, there are others to discover. Do not be afraid of the food, try it. Be courteous and interested and the return will be great, and add greatly to your experience.
SAVE TIME TO LEAVE THE CITY AND SEE SOMETHING OF THE COUNTRY, YOU WILL NOT BE SORRY.
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